Author Topic: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics  (Read 8677 times)

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Offline Paul K

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #15 on: December 07, 2018, 08:36:55 am »
No.  It's never ready ;).  There's always something you have to do to the bike, even when it doesn't need it :).  I'm looking at making up a rack to secure my stuff on.  There's a distinct lack of frame parts to clip bungy hooks onto so I'll discard the grab-handles, then bolt the rack onto the mounts.

And yes; I know you can buy an off the shelf rack, but if I make my own, I get exactly what I want :)

I've fabricated a tool box, which is now bolted to the left side of the frame.  I'll post a picture when I've time to load it onto the Flickr website.

Offline Stephen Bailey

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #16 on: December 08, 2018, 02:33:43 pm »
I bought a Beta rack. But it just made the rear pack three inches taller.... :)

Would have been better off just bolting the rear pack direct to the rear guard.
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Offline Stephen Bailey

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #17 on: December 08, 2018, 02:35:39 pm »
Oh... And I used the left hand side of a pair of oxford panniers on the bike..

I found that if using a tank bag, what I put in it smelt of petrol after only a few miles...
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Offline Paul K

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #18 on: December 11, 2018, 09:26:49 am »
I've fabricated a tool box, which is now bolted to the left side of the frame.  I'll post a picture when I've time to load it onto the Flickr website.
So here’s the metal tool box; made out of cut-down stores draw with a side welded on and a hinged lid fitted.  Sized for the tools and saves unpacking the bag on the rear mudguard :).  It's since been painted black.



The rack is next on the list :)

Offline Stephen Bailey

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #19 on: December 11, 2018, 12:58:32 pm »
Hope its well out of the way of yer leg...…

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speedy31470

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #20 on: January 13, 2019, 05:32:52 pm »
I
The rear suspension looked more interesting.  Two plates link the swinging arm, rear shock and the frame.  So by altering the position of the holes in these link plates, I can move the swinging arm closer to the seat.  Removing the manufacturer’s link plates to free the swinging arm, I worked out there was only a certain amount I could move the holes before the rear wheel fouled the bottom of the mudguard :(.

The result is two new 6 mm thick link plates that move the rear wheel spindle 40 mm closer to the seat :D.  And it'll still stay upright on the side stand; shows how much it was leaning over before the mod.


Fig 1 Beta plate on the left; new plate on the right


Fig 2 New plate installed

Hi from FRANCE,

I just found a 2009 Beta Alp 4.0.
But I'm part of the short-leg clan, so it's a little high for me.
Can you tell me the measurements between the holes and the angles?
And the ratio mm on the links / cm for the seat ?
Also for the following comment @Stephen Bailey :
"Yep... You only need about 2mm further offset in the end hole in the link plate.
It will also make your suspension much softer…"
Where ?
Great thanks and sorry for my poor english…

Offline Paul K

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #21 on: January 14, 2019, 09:59:06 am »
Here is a drawing with the dimensions of the two, identical plates that I made.  All dimensions in mm.



I don’t know what you mean by 'And the ratio mm on the links / cm for the seat'.  All I can tell is that the frame above the rear axle was lowered by about 40 mm.

Stephen will have to answer your other questions about ‘2mm further offset’ and about ‘suspension much softer’.  Your Engish is better than my French :).

speedy31470

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Re : Beta Alp 4.0 sujets
« Reply #22 on: January 14, 2019, 04:13:45 pm »
 :) :D ;)
Great, Great ! That's exactly the decrease I wanted.
Thank you so much .
Best regards.
Pierre-Jean.

Offline Stephen Bailey

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #23 on: January 15, 2019, 09:16:13 am »
Paul K's Drawing takes in the 2mm offset from the standard plates... In fact Pauls is about a 3mm offset from standard.


You will probably need to put 30mm handlebar risers on and push the forks up in the yokes the same amount as the rear suspension is lowered, otherwise you will loose the lowering advantage and the bikes handling will be compromised.

Also shorten the side-stand…  :)
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Offline Stephen Bailey

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #24 on: January 15, 2019, 09:17:27 am »
Best to also remove the side-stand cut-out switch as well.  :)
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Offline Stephen Bailey

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #25 on: January 15, 2019, 09:23:55 am »
Here is a drawing with the dimensions of the two, identical plates that I made.  All dimensions in mm.



I don’t know what you mean by 'And the ratio mm on the links / cm for the seat'.  All I can tell is that the frame above the rear axle was lowered by about 40 mm.

Stephen will have to answer your other questions about ‘2mm further offset’ and about ‘suspension much softer’.  Your Engish is better than my French :).

Paul. If you still have the original plates possibly you could put the dimensions n the drawing to show where the differences are.  :) 
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speedy31470

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #26 on: January 17, 2019, 02:52:39 pm »
Paul K's Drawing takes in the 2mm offset from the standard plates... In fact Pauls is about a 3mm offset from standard.

Thank you Stephen, but sorry, I don't understand what you mean…
I measured the original plate and it is 60mm instead of 67 at the top, 73 instead of 72 at the bottom and 48 instead of 57 left side of the drawing ... (+ or - 1 mm)
For the fork, I think to put inner wedges of 30mm ! It's more clean  ;)
And remove the contactor of the crutch when I shorten it. ;) :)

Offline Stephen Bailey

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #27 on: January 17, 2019, 10:28:44 pm »
Paul K's Drawing takes in the 2mm offset from the standard plates... In fact Pauls is about a 3mm offset from standard.

Thank you Stephen, but sorry, I don't understand what you mean…
I measured the original plate and it is 60mm instead of 67 at the top, 73 instead of 72 at the bottom and 48 instead of 57 left side of the drawing ... (+ or - 1 mm)
For the fork, I think to put inner wedges of 30mm ! It's more clean  ;)
And remove the contactor of the crutch when I shorten it. ;) :)

It was the standard measurements that were required...

I only moved one hole out 2mm...…

I think I made the holes with your 72mm just 2mm longer than standard... However it was 12 years ago....


I made a 1/2 scale drawing of the suspension... and worked out what i needed to lower it 25mm...   :)
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Offline Paul K

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #28 on: January 18, 2019, 05:24:50 pm »
I measured the original plate and it is 60mm instead of 67 at the top, 73 instead of 72 at the bottom and 48 instead of 57 left side of the drawing ... (+ or - 1 mm)
The new plates that I made are for a 2018 model Beta Alp 4.0.  Your 2009 model may have different plates.  You could look at a parts catalogue to compare the part numbers for the OEM plates of a 2009 model with the plates of a 2018 model.  If the part numbers are different, then the dimensions might be different between the two model years.

As a test, you could make some plates from 1 mm thick steel plate to see how the rear suspension is affected.  From the test plates, you could alter the dimensions of the final 6 mm thick plates to suit your bike.


Offline Paul K

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Re: Beta Alp 4.0 Topics
« Reply #29 on: January 26, 2019, 10:35:01 am »
Went to clean the bike after the Exeter Trial and found the rear tyre flat as a pancake with a 25 mm thorn through the tyre and tube :(.  No idea when I picked that up, but at least the tyre didn’t go down on the ride home.  I have to fit a new tyre anyway so no extra work :).

I decided to use the tools I’d have when I’m on a trial so no garage bead breaker this time.  I recently bought a set of Motion Pro aluminium tyre bead breaker levers so now’s the time to see if they work.  And they do ;D.  No more jumping on the wall of the tyre; just push the levers in and pull them together. 

I had a bit of a job because the Beta rear Excel rim has a wider lip than some rims, apparently.  But I stuffed a flat, extension handle for my spanners between the rim and the levers to take up the extra gap and gradually worked the tyre off the lip.



And a good job that I used the tools from the bike.  The glue for the puncture patch was dried up so I’d have been stuffed on the trial :-[.

The Motion Pro levers are expensive, but worth it for the time they saved me.

I also got a valve pulling tool to save my fingers getting skinned.  I’ve contemplated getting one for ages, but it was only after watching a friend fix a puncture on a green lane, using the tool, that I decided to get one.